Wednesday, January 27, 2010

102. New York Telephone Company Building

A.K.A.: Barclay-Vesey Building
Location: 140 West Street
Built: 1923–1927
Architect: Ralph Walker
National Register Number: 09000257
Listed: April 30, 2009
Official Documentation: NYCLPC Report

Barclay-Vesey Building

I worked at the World Trade Center for eight years yet have no memory of ever noticing it. Like a stroke victim who's lost part of his visual field, it's as if I couldn't even see this building. Given the size of the towers—the ones that sliced a few edges off the Barclay-Vesey as they crumbled—it's not surprisingly this brown dwarf got lost. Given the size of its current and future neighbors, it looks like it'll continue to be lost.

Barclay-Vesey Building detail

Ralph Walker, the architect: "It was Emerson, I think, who told us to stop building the sepulchers of our fathers and build our own house. The Barclay-Vesey Building is an attempt to build a house of today." Could this ever have really been a house of today? It requires an imaginative leap. Googie architecture is still "futuristic"—even if quaintly so—because we never actually arrived at the moonbase/jetpack world it promised. There is, perhaps, a similar displacement at work with Streamline Moderne, as it still seems more like the stuff of Hollywood movies than real life, no matter how much the style worked its way into real life. This one seems less distinctive, stumpy masses in khaki. It was the first Art Deco skyscraper, but perhaps the Chrysler Building spoils me into thinking such a thing requires a more flamboyant gesture than this. Thanks to the security concerns which make me hesitant to get me very close (forget about lobbies, reputed to be fabulous), I have to squint hard to see the Barclay-Vesey's dream-life, but it's there in the far-off tops of its piers and corners: stone flora and fauna living in an equatorial paradise.

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Saturday, January 2, 2010

101. Woolworth Building

A.K.A.: "The Cathedral of Commerce"
Location: 233 Broadway
Built: 1910–1913
Architect: Cass Gilbert
National Register Number: 66000554
Listed: November 13, 1966
Official Documentation: NRHP Nomination Form

The Woolworth Building

"Gothic," Lindy Grant tells us, "is an architecture of skeleton, rib and bone."

In a Gothic cathedral, the means of structural support—vault, arch, and buttress—are visible for everyone to see; whatever can be seen plays a role in the delicate physics of force and counterforce that keeps the cathedral intact. In Gothic, the skeletal is laid bare, unprotected by flesh, just as every man's skeleton will be laid bare by God. Even the most beautiful examples of Gothic will always have that tang of the grotesque, serving up reminders of man's corruptibility and finitude alongside reminders of man's transcendence.

Woolworth Building

E.V. Lucas said "The Woolworth Building does not scrape the sky; it greets it, salutes it with a beau geste."

In crockets and spires, arches and finials, the Woolworth famously utilizes the language of Gothic in its terra-cotta ornamentation. But Gothic here has nothing to do with structure. While some of what you see—the soaring piers and minimized horizontal lines—suggests what's inside, none of it keeps the skyscraper standing up. Its finery hides a skeleton; it is transcendentally superficial, old-world values draped on new-world invention. There is nothing morbid about the Woolworth. In the right light, its terra-cotta surface is not the white of bones, but clouds—against the earth, the firmanent.

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Monday, January 26, 2009

A small note.

If you read this blog regularly, you may have wondered about the lack of entries, completely unaware that this happened.

Praise of any kind is always tricky for me to process. Yes, I love it and seek it OH GOD, YES. When I found out, I took some slugs of Cointreau, called my ma, told some friends, ran through the sidewalks of the Upper East Side throwing clumps of new snow into the air, walked along Central Park, walked all the way down to the Apple Store because why the fuck not, pawed some iPods all soppy wet, got some French fries, took a taxi home. And when I catch myself enjoying praise, I find ways to sabotage the pleasure: the high I felt on Sunday, rather than spurring me on to write, encouraged laziness and hypochondria over what are likely sinus headaches BUT WHAT IF IT'S A BRAIN TUMOR, etc. I suppose this is my method of avoiding the sin of pride but wow what a shitty method it is. (It occurs to me as I write this that pride is exactly what Brodie gets punished for in the Brooklyn Bridge story um er uh draw yr own conclusions.)

I should also mention that I've been trying to finish up the Civic Center landmarks, which means I have to tackle the Woolworth Building and City Hall, and such big-deal buildings have always given me trouble: what can I offer that Wikipedia won't? I got out of that hangup with the Brooklyn Bridge by making use of fantasies I'd been entertaining since reading Luc Sante's Low Life (the first book I picked up after 9/11, which is maybe telling you too much but it's out of my hands now--again, draw yr own conclusions) but these two don't lend themselves to mythopoeia quite as easily. So I'm not sure what I'm going to do with them.

But the blog will continue. It pleases me to write about the city. It pleases me to treat New York as unmapped territory, or a memory I am trying to recollect in all its original intensity. It also pleases me to write fiction, but I don't want to do that here, or at least not much of it here--maybe that's another blog.

Thank you for reading.

Sunday, January 11, 2009

100. Brooklyn Bridge

A.K.A.: East River Bridge
Built: 1867-1883
Architect: John A. Roebling
National Register Number: 66000523
Listed: October 15, 1966
Visited: February 1, June 26, and November 21, 2008
Official Documentation: NYCLPC Report; NRHP Nomination Form

Brooklyn Bridge

This is the famous Brooklyn Bridge! One hundred and thirty-three feet high, fifteen hundred feet long! Contains hundreds of miles of cable! From it, Steve Brodie made his sensational leap into the East River!

You know, he actually did jump off the Brooklyn Bridge. Most sobersided historians believe one of his cronies threw a dummy from the bridge, and once it hit the water, Brodie came out swimming from under a pier, very much alive and triumphant. To believe this is to accept a level of stupidity in the New Yorkers of 1886 that defies common sense: even at a distance, who's going to mistake a straw-filled sack for somebody who can swim? No, Brodie made the jump all right. But--and this was Brodie's genius--there was a dummy, too. He made sure people saw it on the river, but the jump was all his and he had the seared skin and the shuffled pancreas to prove it. What he faked was the faking. He was a newsboy, a great one, so he knew stories circulate better when there's the whiff of bullshit about them. Corrupted truths are objects of imagination and opportunities to fight; facts are just schoolday lessons. Later, much later, he'd remind people that we have standard-issue incontrovertible proof that Robert Odlum jumped and died and that Larry Donovan jumped and lived but we don't remember them.

After he died and his family and friends got on with their lives, he walked all the way from San Antonio to claim his title of Ghost Protector of the Brooklyn Bridge. Not that he knew what it meant, but he figured he'd grow into the role by, well, being Steve Brodie. He assumed he'd be treated like a conquering hero, but the bridge was littered with other ghosts, workmen who fell from the towers or got crippled in the caissons. They were vague and insensate, and couldn't be charmed. He got lost.

The Bowery had a more interesting mix of souls anyway; in this new gray world, he only knew some, but they all knew him. But the life was constricting. He missed sex, food, money. His bookie instincts--what made him a motherfucker in his former life--didn't matter in a world without possessions, they withered. He figured it was a kind of mortification. Most of the other ghosts weren't especially game, anyway. Oh there were sweet girls and sporting fellas but a lot of the rest weren't all there, as mute or crazy or incomplete as the bridge men. And all of them eventually vanished from the scene, in onesies and twosies, always without fanfare or goodbyes or even much notice from others. A new ghost would appear on the street so often, usually in a state of confusion or denial, but within a few days' or years' time, they would walk away and not be seen again. Presumably to heaven or hell but he never got any proof of that.

Brodie didn't disappear, which confused him. There seemed no reason for it. And all things considered, he still had his wits about him. He settled for voyeurism, picking a store or an apartment and inhabiting it for months at a time, drinking in the minutiae of its inhabitants' lives like a wine connoisseur.

He spend many hours listening in to their conversations, hoping the subjects would turn to the Bowery or the Bridge or daredevils or whatever, and thus to him. A passing mention of him could make his month, or, if it wasn't cadenced properly, ruin it. That dumb Bowery movie from a few years back was bad enough, and worse yet some Hollywood softie saw fit to steal his name. Then there was a cartoon--and he liked Bugs Bunny--that riffed on the jump but featured this classless galoot that didn't look like him, didn't sound like him, and didn't even have the right name. (Brody, with a -y and not an -ie. He coldcocked men for less.) He knew verisimilitude was besides the point with these things, but still, what a fix: his reputation survived, but it was the kind of reputation that only folk heroes get, one where it didn't matter if he really lived or not. So this is why I'm stuck here, he thought, hardly for the first time. Sin of pride. I'm being shown up, being shown what a paltry thing my pride is.

Eventually he learned to read well because there was little else to do. Mainly it was the newspapers lying on the ground. He slept a lot, and when he did, he dreamed about the bridge. He could slink his way into theaters and watch shows. There was sports. Boxing. He loved boxing. He felt shamed by them; they were gladiators, kings, even with the gloves and the incomprehensible rules. Ali made him cry all the time.

He learned how to haunt, which at first he did for kicks, then to satisfy his mushy side by wanting to help the living, like he was a guardian angel. Nothing he could do really got through to them. It was exhausting enough trying to throw an ashtray across a room or to manifest himself as an apparition; when it came time to communicate something he couldn't make himself sensible. He was accused by other ghosts of just wanting to be noticed, something he couldn't deny because, after all, that's what his whole life was about.

He went back to the bridge after its hundredth anniversary, sensing once again it was loved. He conquered it once, he owned it, but it proved to be stronger than him. He would, on spring and summer nights, patrol his bridge, walking back and forth or climbing the cables. Cops there would sometimes speak of premonitory sensations when there was trouble, something stronger than a second sight, almost a buzzing in the ear. It was him, going for subtlety for once.

He also found some purpose in kids. By now he had lost his accent and forgot some of his old friend's names but he stubbornly held onto sentimental attitudes about children that were pure throwback. He had this inexplicable knack for being around when kids flamed into purgatory, and a more explicable knack for talking kids down from the anguish and fear they'd usually be in. He was big dumb kid, too (well a smart big dumb kid), charming them with his bravado and natty flash and his silliness. (Some of them knew him from Bugs Bunny.) He got real good at it. God condescended to meet with him on 9/11--about time--asking him to guide a Cantor Fitz broker through the netherworld. Not his thing, really, but she was so shook and, well, you don't say no to God.

People would walk through him all the time (an mildly uncomfortable sensation) but now they pass down the street and he could just swear that they had shifted their bodies, just a little bit, like in unconscious acknowledgment that they were in the presence of Steve Brodie, Unknown Ghost Protector of the Brooklyn Bridge, somebody not to be fucked with. He tendered the possibility that he might be imagining things but oh, it pleased his vanity immensely.

He wasn't sure he liked these new people who now live in his old stomping grounds. More money than smarts. Folks that would've been cut or cowed round these parts, back then. But the anger is subsiding. He is feeling ecumenical. It gives him no pain anymore. He is still king. He knows it, even if they don't. He thought once his pride kept him here, and maybe it does, but still he lords over these buildings, all of them, the apartments, the kitchen fixture stores, lighting. So little remains. But it doesn't matter, it's OK. His lit from within, incandescent. He gets his energy from unseen channels now. And there is the bridge.

The craziest thing happened a few years ago. He found himself drawn from the bridge to this one dumb bar, lousy with hustler-students and business creatives, a place he'd swore he never go back to again...it had a shot of whiskey in a creche. Whiskey that was a vivid amber and not the pallid washout colors he had known for a hundred years. He remembered something like this happening from some religious ceremony he walked in the middle of once on the Lower East Side, long time ago. (Vodun? Santeria? Krishna? Something totally off the books? His memory was bad.) A shrine with cakes and oranges, forgotten pinks and golds and greens, vivid as the sun; other ghosts politely offered him a bite, but he was too stunned to do anything but demur. Was this whiskey for him? He stared at it for the longest time, wondering if this was some Devil's temptation, or God fucking with his head. He passed his hand through the shotglass. A double of the whiskey emerged, ghosted yet still burning golden. A miracle. He took it to his lips and swallowed and the world's colors returned.

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Wednesday, December 31, 2008

99. US Courthouse

A.K.A.: Thurgood Marshall United States Courthouse; Thurgood Marshall Federal Courthouse
Location: 40 Centre Street/40 Foley Square
Built: 1932-1936; currently under restoration
Architects: Cass Gilbert and Cass Gilbert, Jr.
National Register Number: 87001596
Listed: September 2, 1987
Visited: December 30, 2008
Official Documentation: NYCLPC Report; NRHP Nomination Form

The Thurgood Marshall United States Courthouse

As an urban space, the Civic Center does not work, and probably never will. Knock down the gallumphing modernist anonymoids, and you'd be left with a grand buildings in odd spatial and height relationships with each other. Tear them down--and this was seriously considered many times in the last hundred-plus years--and you're still left to contend with useless plazas and bridge-fed traffic arteries that make life difficult for the pedestrian. Remove them, and...well, now you're beyond the realm of real-world budgets and political will, so forget it. (Manhattan's most successful urban space outside of Central Park is inordinately devoted to mass media companies--what does that tell you?)

The Thurgood Marshall United States Courthouse and Manhattan Municipal Building

Like even the best buildings in the immediate vicinity, this courthouse provides grandeur in a frankly awkward way. Paired with the Municipal Building forms a solid, almost wall-like presence on the west side of Centre Street that isn't matched on the east: grand, but lopsided. And by itself, when consumed in one visual gulp, it feels like a unimaginative expression of expediency. Need to house a hunk of courtroom space and give your building a certain ineffable sense of gravitas? Well, tower + temple = problem solved! Yeah, at least it tries for ceremony--more you can say about certain other dreary places I've been stuck in thanks to jury duty--but all that austere neoclassical jazz below, I can't really warm up to. Its gilded pyramid makes up for a lot, though. That's perfectly sited to catch the rays of the sun and provide a little golden twinkle for the people on the ground.

Gilded tower of the Thurgood Marshall United States Courthouse

This is Cass Gilbert's last work, by the way--he passed away in the middle of its construction, leaving his son, Cass Gilbert Jr. to see it through its completion. I'll be saying a lot more about him when I cover the Woolworth Building...which should be in a week or three! Happy New Year! I'm off to impromptu and drunken late night festivities at the 59th Street Apple Store! Woo!

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Sunday, December 28, 2008

98. LETTIE G. HOWARD (schooner)

A.K.A.: Mystic C.; Caviare
Location: Off Pier 16, off of Fulton Street
Built: 1893
Builder: Arthur D. Story
National Register Number: 84002779
Listed: September 7, 1984
Visited: December 14, 2008
Official Documentation: NRHP Nomination Form; NHL Form

The Lettie G. Howard

An annoyance. As it rarely stays in one spot, this boat resisted all my attempts at capture, wintering at Kings Point when I did my first batch of Seaport posts back in January and February, and off on all sorts of mad adventures the rest of the year. Impromptu drop-ins, inquiries into the museum, even trying to befriend this ship via its MySpace page still led me to a blank spot by Pier 16 where a ship should be. So when the MySpace page announced "alongside the Lightship Ambrose in her winter berth," I was less in a mood for discovery than getting the damned thing done, a feeling abetted by the ship's temporary under-wraps and sail-free condition. Not the optimal setting for blog excitement, I must admit.

One Toronto website, offering cruises and "team building challenges," explains that "Schooners were popular in occupations that required high speed and windward ability," a statement so mild and factual that it does not prepare you for "such as slaving, privateering, blockade running and"--going back to mild--"offshore fishing." Well, not that mild, as fishing was always a nasty occupation, and even today has with the highest fatality rate in the United States. The Lettie G. Howard is one of the last surviving fishing schooners of its kind, but if you're hoping it has ripping yarns, stories that wake us up to the blood-and-wounds business of nation-building, you're shit of out of luck. The online historical record for the Lettie G. does not offer too much in the way of specifics--the NHL form linked to above is even missing every other page. What I can tell you is that it was born in Essex, Massachusetts, worked the Gorton's Fisherman territory around Gloucester for its first eight years, then later moved to Florida and the Gulf of Mexico before getting purchased by the South Street Seaport in 1968. It does not appear to have deep New York roots, though the South Street Seaport Museum website notes that it is "similar to the schooners that carried their Long Island and New Jersey catches to New York City's the Fulton Fish Market"--a fine thread of historical continuity between the ship's and the seaport's pasts and present severed when the market relocated from South Street to the Bronx. Today the museum offers sail training courses and the like on the ship which, at $150 and up, is too rich for my blood.

The Lettie G. Howard, under wraps

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Wednesday, December 24, 2008

97. Municipal Building

A.K.A.: Manhattan Municipal Building
Location: 1 Centre Street
Built: 1912-1914
Architect: William M. Kendall of McKim, Mead & White
National Register Number: 72000879
Listed: October 18, 1972
Visited: February 2, October 15 and 21, and December 14, 2008
Official Documentation: NYCLPC Report; NRHP Nomination Form

Sun and Manhattan Municipal Buildings

Bureaucracy operates at several removes from the life of the very citizens it is supposed to serve. Designed to centralize much of the city's newly-expanded administration after the consolidation of 1898, this skyscraper is, inadvertently, an embodiment of that distance. Once Chambers Street ran right through its loggia, as if it was a massive version of the Chandelier Tree, which lives with a giant hole at its base--as if to emphasize that something as trifling as traffic could not bother its Olympian operations.

I keep reading that "allegedly" (just "allegedly"--I can't find a first- or second-hand source) Stalin admired this building so much that it served as a primary inspiration for Moscow's "Seven Sisters" skyscrapers, his attempt at refashioning post-War Moscow into a modern endeavor to rival Western cities. A terrible irony, that: by the time all of them were constructed, new architecture in New York had long since moved on, abandoning its Roman monumentalism for more beautiful kinds of monumentalism, the Secretariat and Lever House.

Manhattan Municipal Building

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